By Mimi Thorisson
While Mimi Thorisson and her relatives moved from Paris to a small city in out-of-the-way Médoc, she didn't really be aware of what used to be in shop for them. She came across magnificent ingredients—from neighborhood farmers and the neighboring woods—and, most vital, time to cook dinner. Her cookbook chronicles the family’s seasonal foodstuff and existence in an previous farmhouse, all photographed by way of her husband, Oddur. Mimi’s convivial recipes—such as Roast poultry with Herbs and Crème Fraîche, Cèpe and Parsley Tartlets, iciness Vegetable Cocotte, Apple Tart with Orange Flower Water, and Salted Butter Crème Caramel—will deliver the heat of rural France into your home.
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Additional info for A Kitchen in France: A Year of Cooking in My Farmhouse
Spread the butter between two large sheets of plastic wrap and use a rolling pin to shape it into an 8-by-9-in/20-by-23-cm rectangle, pushing the butter to the corners and forming straight edges. Use your hands to mold the butter as needed, but work quickly and try not to touch the butter too much so it doesn’t melt. The goal is to keep the butter pliable, yet still ﬁrm and cool. Wrap the butter block tightly in the plastic wrap and refrigerate it while you roll out the dough. Lightly dust your work surface and the top of the dough with ﬂour.
Pinch together the seams around the edges of the dough. Lightly press the layers together using the rolling pin. This completes what is known as the ﬁrst turn of the dough. If the butter is still cold and ﬁrm, proceed to the next turn. If it seems soft and squishy, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 1 hour. Next, fold the dough together like a book jacket: Working quickly to avoid melting the butter, roll the dough out to form a new 10-by20-in/25-by-50-cm rectangle, pulling and stretching to form straight edges and sharp corners.
The pretzels are best enjoyed warm from the oven on the day they are made. To store the pretzels, see page 21. Reheat cheese-stuffed pretzels in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 oven for about 8 to 10 minutes, or 10 to 12 minutes if frozen. COOK’S NOTE Bocconcini are bite-size fresh mozzarella balls, which are sold by the pound packed in cloudy whey or water at most supermarkets. 45 46 PRETZEL MAKING AT HOME 12 soft pretzel rolls (1 batch Traditional Soft Pretzels, page 26, made in the shape of rolls, page 33) 4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, at room temperature ¼ cup/60 ml Sweet Bavarian Mustard (page 108) 1½ lbs/680 g Black Forest ham, sliced paper-thin 8 oz/225 g Emmentaler cheese, cut into 12 thin slices makes 12 BLACK FOREST HAM AND EMMENTALER PRETZEL ROLLS WITH SWEET BAVARIAN MUSTARD I had already concocted this recipe when I visited the Greenbrier resort in West Virginia for a food writers’ symposium in the summer of 2011.